The dining room is efficiently run by knowledgeable waiters and the mostly northern Italian menu is appealingly diverse.

So are the waiters, knowledgeable without being know-it-alls.

There's no wine list to peruse - instead, the knowledgeable waiters suggest suitable tipples from unfamiliar regions of the Balkans.

The service is impeccable, with knowledgeable waiters ready to offer advice and explanations.

One evening we drew a knowledgeable, take-no-notes waiter who got the job done.

We had a knowledgeable, hardworking waiter one night, but his backup crew was found wanting.

Grafted onto a section of the old Roman wall, the setting is sublime and the waiters highly knowledgeable (and congenial).

The knowledgeable waiters, who deliver the deep-fried treats, also inform diners that every dish can be ordered mild, medium or hot.

Two weeks later, a knowledgeable waiter got everything right, and the food was almost flawless.

"Sometimes, faced with a mouth-watering menu, I have left my food choice to a knowledgeable waiter," she wrote.