Pastas are terrific, like bigoli al ragu d'agnello, round Venetian pasta that Luca Marcato, the chef and owner, makes himself, served with a full, rich lamb sauce.

Several good pastas can be had in half-portions as appetizers, including tagliolini in lamb sauce and rigatoni in a Bolognese sauce.

Pour some of the reserved lamb sauce over the meat.

The menu is unusual, with things like rigatoni in a lamb sauce or ricotta ravioli in pork juices.

"The chef has made a wonderful Chilean sea bass with lamb sauce," he coos.

At least 1 day before serving, make the lamb sauce: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

He keeps to the kitchen, preparing specialties like gnocchi with lamb sauce, oxtail or liver in a thick artichoke sauce.

Add the simmering lamb sauce.

It was hard to assess the lamb sauce because it was overpowered by grated cheese.

A hearty lamb sauce shot through with the tang of fresh tarragon clings to robust pappardelle with real character.