The slow-roasted spiced lamb, wrapped in banana leaves and served with frijoles charros and corn tortillas, is a good bet.

Service is willing but error-strewn; the dishes are petite and reindeer-heavy but feature some great creations, such as spot-on reindeer rillettes and slow-roasted lamb that falls off the bone.

Chile's oversized asado (barbecue) often includes slow-roasted whole lamb on the spit.

The straightforward but polished dishes include bisque of Port Looe crab and slow-roasted lamb.

Orthodox Easter, on May 5, features magiritsa soup with lemon and egg and slow-roasted lamb with lemon potatoes to break the 40-day meat fast.

As we ate, I was reminded of another April day in 1954 in Rome, when I first encountered the slow-roasted unweaned lamb that the Romans call abbacchio, which has haunted my memory ever since and whose traditional method of preparation must have descended intact from the Arab or perhaps Indian original.

The barbacoa, slow-roasted spice-rubbed lamb wrapped in avocado, banana and hoja santa leaves, was at the delightful falling-apart stage and quite tasty served with excellent warm flour tortillas and three toppings: tomato jalapeño salsa; cilantro and onion; and tomatillo with avocado.

There is no formal menu, just endless mezes (like samarella, cured sheep with salt and oregano) and main courses (including kleftiko, a slow-roasted lamb) served family style until guests can handle no more, after which about a half dozen desserts and home-brewed liqueurs such as fiery Zavinia appear.

Just before noon, the vendors at this row of stalls start carving up steaming sides of mechoui (slow-roasted lamb), as though expecting King Henry VIII for lunch.

I had a starter of warm potato and parmesan salad with truffle oil, followed by the slow-roasted lamb with a mint-infused dressing.