Strictly routine were the somewhat chewy fried calamari mated with a zippy chili-powered dipping sauce.

The crunchy, deep-fried, chrysanthemum-like beauty arrives with a zippy Dijon-horseradish sauce for dipping.

Other appetizers include a pristine octopus salad with sliced onions in a zippy red sauce.

Lemon pasta, a bowl of fettuccine in a lush, zippy sauce, is Citron at its best.

Fried whole sea bass is just as exhilarating as it has always been, its brittle skin and firm, moist meat glazed in a zippy hot sauce.

Fried calamari was crisp and squiddy, with a zippy red sauce.

The more adventurous might sample the pristine octopus salad with sliced onions in a zippy red sauce ($4.75).

A fritter of potatoes and rock shrimp had little appeal on its own, but a zippy sauce of roasted poblano chili brought it to life.

Linguine with white clam sauce starred tender shellfish and a zippy sauce.