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Kosher salt has coarse crystals, which are necessary for the koshering of meat.
An association of rich Jews rents a bakery, its members take over for the heads of the families all the tasks of producing the so-called eighteen-minute matzos: the fetching of water, the koshering, the kneading, the cutting, the piercing.
There is, in fact, the romantic matter of Hillela's lost mother, Ruth, who ran off to the passionate embrace of a Portuguese singer in Mozambique, kept going back "to wash off the Calvinism and koshering of this place," says Pauline.