(Possible exception: Café Gray, but those are some phenomenal short ribs.)

Café Gray was four months on by the time we got there.

But there's something off-kilter about Café Gray, something disorienting, and that layout is a big part of it.

Café Gray has minted the passive-aggressive restaurant design.

"Per Se and Café Gray are doing well over $200,000 a week."

Café Gray, on the third floor, is also well regarded and more moderately priced.

Café Gray, his restaurant there, is taking all his attention, he said.

Mr. Meyer wasn't referring to Café Gray, or to any other restaurant in particular.

He will soon open Café Gray in the Time Warner Center.

When he opened Café Gray three years ago, it was his first restaurant in more than five years.