A 20-ounce Cajun porterhouse ($25) colossus combined deep beef taste and the lively snap of Cajun spices.

A mere dusting of Cajun spices and a hint of ginger finished the grilled tuna.

But the food was remarkable: fresh shrimp steamed in a broth of Cajun spices, and oak-colored shrimp gumbo thick with okra.

This treat is brimming with seafood, rice, a tomato broth and a dose of Cajun spices.

"We have traded down on looks, but up in Cajun spice," TONY SNOW, host of the show, said of his substitute guest, who is from Louisiana.

A&P is also a fine place to go to stock up on Cajun spices and pepper sauces at lower prices than those at the Farmer's Market.

Fruity sweet-tart dipping sauce went perfectly with succulent jumbo shrimp under a mere dusting of Cajun spice.

Trader Nick's at Night, 63 2002, has such exotic items as squid filled with a seafood risotto dipped in Cajun spice, with a banana and coconut sauce ($13.50).

One dinner special, pan-fried catfish, was carefully prepared, with delicate flavor but no murmur of the Cajun spices recited by our waitress.

The addition of the Cajun spices she preferred gave the broth a sharp, pleasing flavor that never failed to elicit a sigh of contentment from her as she took the first sip.