Lemon wedges or mayonnaise are typical accompaniments for the fish.

Boiled Head-on Shrimp 1 dried habanero chili pepper 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns 4 bay leaves 1 tablespoon kosher salt 5 tablespoons white-wine vinegar 2 pounds extra-large shrimp, preferablyTexas farm-raised, with heads and shells on Lemon wedges and hot sauce for serving.

STEAMED SHRIMP ROLLS WITH TARRAGON Adapted from March Time: 30 minutes 1 pound large shrimp, shelled 3 tablespoons fresh tarragon leaves, finely chopped Sea salt Lemon wedges, for garnish.

SALMON ROASTED IN BUTTER Time: 15 minutes 4 tablespoons ( 1/2 stick) butter 4 tablespoons minced chervil, parsley or dill 1 salmon fillet, 1 1/2 to 2 pounds Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Lemon wedges.

SHAD ROAST Adapted from Marian Cervone Time: 1 1/2 hours 2 boned fillets from a roe shad Salt and pepper to taste 1 pair shad roe sacs 6 strips bacon 1/2 cup white wine Lemon wedges.

SAUTEED CHICKEN Time: 30 minutes 1 chicken, 2 to 3 pounds, cut into serving pieces Salt and ground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon paprika or mild chili powder 1 teaspoon minced garlic Lemon wedges, optional 1.

Lemon wedges, tartar sauce or brown butter will dress it up.

Oyster Pigs in Blankets Adapted from "The Big Oyster" by Mark Kurlansky (Ballantine Books) Time: 20 minutes 16 thin slices bacon (1 pound) 16 plump shucked oysters Lemon wedges.

Deep-Fried Whiting Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 10 to 15 minutes 10 whiting, about 1 1/2 pounds 6 cups corn, peanut or vegetable oil 1 cup flour Salt to taste, if desired Freshly ground pepper to taste Lemon wedges or lemon halves.

Grilled Spicy Shrimp With Bermuda Onion Total time: 45 minutes 2pounds large shrimps 3large cloves garlic 1tablespoon coarse sea salt 2tablespoons Thai chili paste Juice of 1/2 lemon 2tablespoons olive oil 2Bermuda onions, cut in thick slices 1/2cup basil leaves Lemon wedges.