"I hear it's first-rate Provencal cooking."

The recipes are explained in such excellent detail that the colorful and aromatic essences of Provencal cooking like persillade and aioli seem to waft from the pages.

But a couple of the main courses demonstrate the best of Provencal cooking.

The seductive Provencal cooking is delightful and the staff is friendly.

Provencal cooking is more sensory than calculated, so you must taste for seasonings periodically - and always before serving.

Georgian cuisine evokes memories of Arabic, Greek and Provencal cooking.

C Map The town's oldest restaurant remains the locals' choice for always-good, copious portions of earthy Provençal cooking, like daube or tapenade-stuffed lamb shoulder.

Le Perigord has its 25th anniversary this year, the last seven under the culinary tutelage of Antoine Bouterin, a largely unsung master of classical and Provencal cooking.

A French restaurant that offers authentic Provencal cooking is L'Auberge de Provence, 45 Buckingham Gate, S.W. 1 (834 6655).