A side order of apple-smoked bacon was forgotten, but was promptly fetched, and the $3.50 charge stricken from the bill.

White bean soup, a smooth, nourishing puree, was made with apple-smoked bacon, garlic and thyme, with a sprinkle of bacon bits.

Cradled in a puff-pastry basket, topped with apple and apple-smoked bacon, it seemed like a Southern reinterpretation of a medieval mince pie, but richer.

It's worth watching for unusual offerings, like the delectable grilled halibut cheek set over creamy grits and garnished with shards of apple-smoked bacon.

Preoccupied by pancakes, I had neglected a sheet of apple-smoked bacon that was in the oven and was now providing its own smoke.

And Brian Bistrong, the chef at Citarella, flash-roasts his shad in a pan and serves it with brussels sprouts, apple-smoked bacon and onion-bonito broth.

The Cobb salad featured a cornucopia of top-of-the-line fresh ingredients, but the apple-smoked bacon was left with its rind on, making it impossible to chew.

I ordered a special that's about to become a summer staple: spaghettini in a gorgonzola cream sauce tossed with peas and apple-smoked bacon.

The brunch menu is primarily breakfast dishes like Irish oatmeal, French toast, an omelet of the day, and poached eggs with biscuits, apple-smoked bacon and hollandaise sauce.

But its mixed grill of quail, homemade sausage and apple-smoked bacon over cabbage is a winner.