But bitter vanilla-thyme oil might be rethought as a flavoring for goat cheese and fine baby beets.

Wild salmon in braciola-style rolls arrived upon a very crisp potato cake with a necklace of baby beets ringing the plate.

It's too hot for me, Trixie," she said, "and your face is the color of a baby beet.

After thinning, a few more weeks of growth provide baby beets, a delicacy to be found only in the garden or at above-standard farmers' markets.

The greens on baby beets are too large and coarse to eat raw in salads, but they are perfect for gentle steaming.

Young baby beets are often cooked, leaves and all, then thinly sliced and mixed with a little sour cream.

We couldn't get enough of the scarlet baby beets, which are so good steamed, or roasted, or pickled.

The one we tried starred red-leaf lettuce, a tomato vinaigrette and yellow and red baby beets.

When cool enough to handle, rub skins off baby beets with a kitchen towel.

It makes up for its lack of commercial polish with jars of delicious homemade pickled baby beets ($8).