The band had gone to their stations so the ship was oddly quiet as she heaved forward on the big swells.
I'd get four, maybe five strips of the line before a big swell tossed my fly into shore.
Not enough to be called dangerous, but enough to cause a big swell with no warning.
A big swell hit the ship which then grounded on the beach.
Once, four girls were collecting shells when a big swell came in and swept them away.
Straddling the board, I rose and fell with each big swell.
But the big swells of the sea are raining on you.
He was still thinking along these lines when the boat buried its bow in the first big swell at the harbor entrance.
Just like a surfer, they get in position for the next big swell.
It is best surfed on a big south-easterly swell or a north west wind.