My husband's braised leg of lamb is not at all what he expected, as all the lean meat has been taken off the bone and assembled in a cylindrical stack.

One evening we dined on braised leg of lamb, polenta with a parmesan crust and flageolets (small, kidney-shaped French beans) with Swiss chard.

On the side is a terrific tortilla filled with braised leg of rabbit scented with cinnamon and smoked chilies.

Eat your way through crab and crayfish ravioli, braised leg of wild hare or loin of venison.

A more complex duck dish - a bit of breast, a braised and re-formed leg, some figs - was exactly the same.

For Easter, the assorted zakuska appetizer will be offered along with braised leg of lamb and traditional Russian Easter desserts.

Entrees, priced from $18 to $28, include crispy breaded sweetbread with asparagus in a port wine sauce, braised leg and loin of rabbit, and pan-roasted duck breast and confit.

Out came more pastry: a tiny pastilla of braised leg to go along with seared breast meat.

Among several ambrosial entrees Muscovy duck breast and braised leg was a succulent star, compatibly matched with chopped Savoy cabbage and a sweet potato puree.

The braised leg was stringy, which was also true of braised rabbit legs, another entree.