The chefs, who know one another, say they enjoy the experience of getting together every year.

But most chefs say the cheese course does not yet make money.

Not that most chefs would ever say so on their menus.

But black chefs say the abuse raises especially sensitive questions of respect.

"I heard what people thought about French food," the 45-year-old chef said as he sat in his restaurant here.

"I don't exercise because being on my feet in the kitchen all day is enough," the chef said.

Even now, "I still can't bear the thought," says the chef, who is 58 years old.

She is, the chef said, "one of the best people I have ever had."

"Soup is one of my favorite things to make," the chef said.

The trick, the city's chefs say, is to keep it simple and not to wear yourself out.