Sea bass, also perfectly grilled, came with baby bok choy, corn salsa and coconut-flavored black rice.
Malcolm might have found the main course more interesting: grilled shrimp over corn salsa.
Nor could an airy crab cake next to a mound of tossed greens and a corn salsa.
If only he smothered it with twice as much of his exuberant pineapple, red pepper and corn salsa.
The half rack made a succulent starter that in itself was enough for a main course, especially along with the mashed potatoes and corn salsa.
But the black beans and grilled corn salsa with it were so good they could have been a meal in themselves.
Arrange them on a serving platter with the corn salsa spooned around them.
Another special, a huge center-cut veal chop escorted by a black bean and corn salsa, also delivered.
Fried oysters on a bed of corn salsa were an unexpected treat.
But the Maryland crab cake atop a roasted corn salsa had tablemates fighting for it.