Here begin the souqs (the traditional markets) and your first taste of the old Jerusalem - with its narrow, cramped alleys, dimly lit by bare bulbs, bustling with exotically-dressed peoples of many nationalities.

There are no streets, only dark, cramped alleys.

At first glance the market resembled an Arab souk, with each cramped alley devoted to a different product: metalware, plastic goods, clothes, carpets, nuts and spices, worry beads, watches, chadors.

In a cramped alley outside a hangar-sized metal building, Cregh propped open an access hatch and ducked low.

To Kim's surprise, Mairelon did not go directly to his wagon Instead, he led Kim around the edge of the market to a cramped alley.

This pinched driving surface looks like a cramped European alley carved in the middle of a wide American street.

This ancient fresh market splays along the cramped alley between Th Yaowarat and Th Charoen Krung.

There were many halts as they bounced along but their kubaru was very good and he quickly got them away BENEATH AN OPAL MOON 19 from the frustrating crowds, taking them down dark cramped alleys and bent lanes.

West of the Tigris River, the cramped alleys of the Snnni-dominated Ad- hamiya district were lit only by the dim lamplight spilling from tiny shops and shanty teahouses, and out through the latticed windows and gates of older homes.

A two-room wooden shack at the end of a cramped alley can cost around $1,400 while a two-bedroom house facing a main road can sell for as much as $16,000.