Often it's the little things that count, like the accurately calibrated bread crumbs on the deep-fried crispy shrimp.

You can start with crispy spring rolls, cold jellyfish with sesame or fried crispy jumbo shrimp.

Starters include crispy shrimp in phyllo dough with vegetables and red vinegar; and mussel soup with garlic, diced tomato, chickpeas, white wine and cilantro.

Stir-fried salty and crispy shrimp are just that: eight perfectly cooked jumbos, slightly salty and very crispy.

The menu includes a good list of mezedes, or Greek tapas, including keftedakias, Greek meatballs; and honey-and-chipotle-glazed crispy jumbo shrimp.

Stir-fried salty and crispy shrimp are for those who like the basics: crackling shrimp with a crystal-like coating; no vegetables, no sauce.

Two entrees, chicken scarpariellos ($16) and crispy jumbo shrimp ($18), deserve attention.

And unless you have a sweet tooth, you would best avoid most of the sweet dishes, except the mala trio and golden crispy shrimp.

But surprisingly seductive are two shrimp dishes, lightly breaded and crispy fried shrimp and firm scampi in a bubbling, heady garlic butter.

And plenty of dishes play it straight, like the very basic pearl-onion tart, or crispy shrimp served on Bibb lettuce with a fruity elderberry vinaigrette.