Sounding ordinary, an order of Brie teamed with slices of poached fresh pears was anything but; this dynamite combination came on a bed of lightly dressed greens, a plus.

For instance, in the "pecan-crusted catfish," the crust was really a plethora of toasted nuts sprinkled over and around the fish, which rested on a mattress of lightly dressed fresh greens.

A very good carpaccio al Gorgonzola was replete with capers, Parmesan and crumbled Gorgonzola, a sprinkle of truffle oil and lightly dressed greens.

Dalton's serves a crusty, chewy bread with a delicious, pungently herbed (with cilantro and scallions) olive oil dip and a salad of lightly dressed fresh greens.

Pureed vegetables layered with goat cheese came alongside an unmentioned but welcome salad of lightly dressed greens.

Also refreshing as a starter was the goat cheese and avocado salad, with small chunks of cheese, a few avocado slices, lightly dressed greens and fresh tomato slices.

Duck foie gras (barely cooked, tremblingly soft) was nonpareil, adorned with lentil salad, onion, arugula and other lightly dressed greens.

Appetizers like saute of fresh foie gras (barely cooked, cloud tender, served warm, with lightly dressed greens) and a quintet of wild mushrooms and woodland custard were exquisite.

The chicken is good whole or shredded over a bed of lightly dressed greens.

Also appealing were seared sea scallops, which surrounded a mound of lightly dressed greens.