Seedy guest houses, once the norm, have been supplanted by elegant Victorian inns.

The Inn was a restaurant and was a "comfortably elegant" inn with 25 rooms.

Not many travelers used the library; most of those who could read stayed at more elegant inns in the Inner City.

Atmosphere: Revitalized lovely, elegant old inn.

The Hotel Lenado (200 South Aspen Street; 303-925-6246) is an elegant bed-and-breakfast inn.

Where to Stay Coastal Marin is peppered with elegant inns and bed and breakfasts.

One of the most elegant older inns is the Gastonian, 220 East Gaston Street, (800) 322-6603 or (912) 232-2869.

This elegant inn retains its Colonial exterior, with a two-story wraparound porch and tall windows.

An elegant inn offers massages and fine dining.

Also in the district, the Brackenridge House (230 Madison Street, 210-271-3442; www.brackenridgehouse.com) is an elegant inn with a grand porch, a small pool and free wireless.