The aromatic tuna, expertly cooked, came with a refreshing sidekick of sweet-and-sour eggplant and ginger-laced tomato jam.

Grilled salmon was expertly cooked but overwhelmed by the mustard in the basil Dijon sauce.

Veal fillet, a tender, underused cut, is expertly cooked and accompanied by sensational mashed potatoes.

The veal was expertly cooked but without flavor; the pasta perfectly al dente, the pesto bland.

Both of these winners were expertly cooked and sported appealingly charred crusts.

Most dishes are not flashy, just expertly cooked and attractively presented.

More troubling still, a few dishes that had been expertly cooked on previous visits were overdone this time around.

Roasted red snapper (express shipped from Maine, according to the waitress) was expertly cooked in a wine sauce with mixed winter vegetables.

Ravioli filled with porcini mushrooms were earthy, rich and expertly cooked.

The steak and skate were expertly cooked.