Toss in a bowl with blanched peas, sugar snaps, remaining lemon zest, salt, pepper, 2 teaspoons olive oil and finely slivered leaves of remaining mint.

For the chive salad cream: 3 tablespoons basil vinegar or flavorful wine vinegar 8 tablespoons basil oil or best-quality extra-virgin olive oil Pinch of salt Freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 tablespoons creme fraiche (see note) Y cup finely slivered fresh chives 2 bunches curly endive or chicory frisee, rinsed and dried.

On a balmy summer evening recently, our dinner began with deep-fried prawn wontons and sung choi bao of quail, crisp lettuce leaf cups holding quickly cooked minced quail with finely slivered vegetables.

Strawberry-Watermelon Fruit Soup Total time: 30 minutes plus chilling 3 cups cubed watermelon, seeded 3 cups sliced ripe strawberries Pinch of cinnamon 1 1/2 tablespoons superfine sugar 3/4 cup dry red wine 2 tablespoons finely slivered mint leaves.

Hot and Sweet Shrimps Total time: 25 minutes 3tablespoons dark brown sugar 4 1/2tablespoons Thai fish sauce 1/2cup water 1teaspoon crushed black peppercorns 3tablespoons minced fresh ginger 1tablespoon minced garlic 1 1/2pounds large shrimps, peeled and deveined 1teaspoon fresh lime juice 1/4cup finely slivered fresh basil 4cups steamed basmati, jasmine or long-grain rice.

Basic Marinara Sauce Total time: 45 minutes 3tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1tablespoon finely chopped garlic 1/2teaspoon dried oregano 128-ounce can Italian plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped 1tablespoon finely slivered fresh basil leaves, if available Salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Puttanesca Sauce Total time: 55 minutes 3tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 6anchovy fillets, drained and chopped 1tablespoon finely chopped garlic 1/2teaspoon dried oregano 128-ounce can Italian plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped 1tablespoon finely slivered fresh basil leaves, if available 2tablespoons capers, drained 8oil-cured black olives, pitted and slivered Salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Condiments to sprinkle on top include flakes of dried preserved pork, pickled lettuce, pickled cucumber and finely slivered scallions and ginger.