The steak arrives on a board, a great charred hunk with the fine, funky flavor of meat that has been dry-aged for a long time.

It is by no means the most picturesque place in Mexico, but its funky beach-town flavor is, in itself, a big draw.

(Derek McLane's sets capture the variously glossy and funky flavors of four different urban habitats.)

They were somewhat sticky and soft, and had no particular aroma but an almost funky flavor and a slightly bitter finish.

"We do not do crazy funky flavors, but each one is the best," Mr. Ciravegna said.

The shrimp served in garlic sauce ($4.95) had a funky, unpleasant flavor, while little fried fish ($3.95) were soft and dull, instead of crisp and lively.

This veritable institution offers cheesecakes, whole or by the slice, in an array of funky flavors that may include peach or even Kahlua.

Rich and creamy, it derives a pleasantly funky flavor from the huitlacoche dumpling.

Fillet can sometimes have a slightly funky, gamy flavor, and salting gets rid of it.