Hip clothes and a variety of funky shops give an introduction to this somewhat alternative quarter of Madrid.

But there are two attractions: Leisure Time bowling in the Port Authority itself, and this funky little shop, which sells some of the city's prettiest cakes.

They were just too impersonal; I wanted to try the funkier and less expensive shops in my new neighborhood.

Its high street, West End Lane, is packed with good restaurants, funky shops, popular pubs, and buzzing bars that are lively from morning till night.

It's got real personality, a nice mix of old and new buildings and some funky, interesting shops and restaurants.

A spokesperson for the Neighborhood Association of Back Bay acknowledged that "There is a changing character from the funky shops to something more generic.

There are many attractions within walking distance of the area, said Mr. Diamante, who described it as "loaded with great restaurants and funky little shops."

Loft apartments are tucked between architectural firms and funky shops selling Jerry Garcia prints, feather boas and toe rings.

Main Street, which slopes down to a stunning river vista, is lined with funky independent shops and cafes, and there's not a chain retailer in sight.