THE plain, egg-white omelet came and went first, buffeted by those pencil-thin, perfect golden fries served at really swell hotels on Central Park South.

The three-course dinner -romaine salad with a good vinaigrette, beefy sirloin, thin golden french fries and creme caramel - is $19.95.

It came with good, dark golden french fries.

The whipped Yukon Gold potatoes that accompanied it made a good showing, but the golden fries with another dish were dry and mealy.

For main courses, the steak frites remains a winner, a juicy Black Angus rib eye under a heap of addictive golden fries.

Line up for its crispy, golden fries made from fresh potatoes.

They're the crispy, golden fries I love - without the fat.

Smart money goes with the buttery burger ($8.25), served with a woodpile of golden French fries dusted with parsley, or looks to the blackboard instead.

Plateaus of oysters glistened on the bar, charred steaks with golden fries were being delivered to diners all around me.

The house namesake dish, steak frites, is an unqualified winner, a crusty Black Angus rib eye nearly buried by a stack of golden french fries.