The warm house smoked trout with horseradish cream has a similar simplicity: nothing masks the strong, fine flavor of the fish.

Spoon a little horseradish cream on each piece.

Fold the beetroot into the horseradish cream together with the shallot.

Smoked trout ($6) is another delight, paired with horseradish cream and apple chutney.

The trout, smoked with horseradish cream or sauteed, is terrific.

Caviar appears again with the blini, which also feature smoked trout and horseradish cream.

Two dips - spicy tomato and horseradish cream - are welcome accoutrements.

White asparagus with horseradish cream, on the other hand, was straight from his Austrian homeland.

Just before serving the soup make the horseradish cream.

Subtly smoked chicken with mixed greens and horseradish cream is excellent.