Jeffrey asked for the quail, too, and steamed mussels in a lemongrass broth.

The same is true when the filling is duck instead of shrimp and the dumplings are served in a lemongrass broth ($8.95).

Seared salmon is impressive, the flesh silken beneath crisp skin, the richness of the fish tempered by the citric tang of the lemongrass broth in which it sits.

I wish the fruit soup in lemongrass broth worked as well as it sounds.

It was evident in the Chilean sea bass, lightly, perfectly cooked, with a hint of lemony accent from a lemongrass broth that had been absorbed in the cooking process.

Another dish of the sea, roasted black mussels with basil in lemongrass broth, with onion, tomato and pineapple, was as zesty as it was fragrant.

The menu is still heavy with seafood and pasta, with occasional Asian touches like vegetable dumplings steamed in a lemongrass broth, Thai-style shrimp and grilled tuna with sesame noodles.

The sauteed Chilean sea bass and fried sesame rice cakes lay over sweet Asian long beans in a delicate lemongrass broth - a subtle and light combination.

Two soups were soothing and brightly seasoned: the lemongrass broth holding shrimp and straw mushrooms, and tom ka gai, a hot and sweet marriage of chicken with coconut milk, onions and chili.

This was a collection of maybe six, somewhat tough, flavored with lemongrass broth and Thai basil, and served in a tiny, lidded pot.