You find it as well at Charlie Palmer, a serious contender owned by the chef of Aureole in Manhattan.

The newcomer is owned by Thomas Lofaso, the chef, and Susanne Allen, who is in charge of the dining room.

Gregory's Grill For less bellicose fare there is this smart, welcoming spot owned by 35-year-old Gregory Casale, the chef, and his wife, Kim.

The handsomely renovated 19th-century brick building is owned by Robert Long, the 30-year-old chef, and his wife, Holly.

Metro Bis is owned by Chris Prosperi, the chef, and his wife, Courtney Febbroriello.

A research laboratory where Blumenthal and his team develop dishes is two doors away opposite the Hinds Head pub, which is also owned by the chef.

One, 107 Ocean Bistro (previously 107 Forest Avenue), is owned by the very talented chef Tom Schaudel.

The latest entry in this rarified firmament is Buerehiesel in Strasbourg, owned by the chef, Antoine Westermann.

The restaurant is owned by the chef Thomas Keller, who made his name with the French Laundry in Napa Valley.

Today," he said, "the restaurant is owned by the chef or the chef is part owner, so he defends his space.