The theme ingredient was offal (organ meats, pig trotters, coxcombs, etc.), an ingredient with which each of the chefs is known to cook routinely.

In another Northern city: Tianjin, yaorou (肴肉) is made by boning and pickling pig trotters with brine and alum.

C Map A pig's whisker from the city's former slaughterhouse, Checchino is a Roman institution, one of the grander restaurants specialising in offal, from calf heads to pig trotters.

On offer are lamb's necks, pig trotters and a five-course nose-to-tail tasting menu perhaps including venison kidneys and chocolate-blood panna cotta.

HOT TO TROT If you're feeling adventurous, try sheep trotters or rabbit stuffed with pig trotters - both regional specialities and, actually, rather nice if you can get past the thought of what you're eating.

Diners who brave the pig trotter can advance to freshwater eel that's painted with a red-wine glaze, balanced on watermelon cubes and sprinkled with crystallized violets.

The jelly in Melton Mowbray pork pies is made from pig trotters.

Crispy pata is a Filipino dish consisting of deep fried pig trotter or knuckles served with a soy-vinegar dip.

A row of chickens and pig trotters hanging from the rafters and a coal-burning stove on a back stoop completed the accommodations.

Betrothal gifts unique to the Hokkien include pig trotters and rice candies.