Pan juices from a lovely lamb shank ($14.50) with Morrocan spices in a tomato braisé seep into sweet potato mash.

It is usually served with french fries, potato mash or wedge potatoes.

Tangy, tasty, but far from smoky or fall-away tender barbecue baby-back ribs ($12.95), with forgettable cole slaw and sweet potato mash were not quite authentic.

For the sweet potato mash, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and add the sweet potato and potato.

The sweet potato mash is shaped into rings and fried.

Lobster-stuffed lemon sole was another triumph, with lobster-and-fennel-flavored stuffing and red potato mash.

Sweet potato mash is served as a side dish, often at Thanksgiving dinner or with barbecue.

The pepper crust on the tuna au poivre, done medium rare, accompanied by potato mash and reedy asparagus spears, added an assertive spice to an appropriately substantial fish.

But the tropic-grilled chicken was ordinary; its malanga-sweet potato mash cold and its advertised grilled vegetables replaced by a dull stir fry of peppers and celery.

It is made from fermented grain or potato mash and flavored with caraway, cumin, angelica, and other botanical ingredients.