Tortilla de patatas, a potato omelet.

People were spilling into the chilly night laughing, eating tortillas española (the ubiquitous egg and potato omelets) or patatas brava (fried potato in a spicy pink sauce) at one spot, the famous jamón serrano at the next.

Its exuberant tiles cloak an austere but cozy bar where the fino is dry and tapas like the potato omelet are unambitious but good.

A selection of about 20 tapas are available daily, including tortilla, the classic Spanish potato omelet; thick wedges of dense, rich Manchego cheese, made from sheep's milk, served with apple slices; roasted peppers, and delicate rounds of cold marinated squid.

About 20 selections are available daily, like the classic Spanish potato omelet, wedges of dense, rich Manchego cheese served with apple slices, breaded asparagus wrapped in slices of smoked salmon, and marinated anchovy fillets.

As noon approaches, tapas bars open - Los Caracoles, 106 Toledo, is a classic, serving the traditional caracoles (snails) in paprika sauce, potato omelet, and slowly simmered callos (tripe).

The food has been very good so far - peasant fare, with stews made from locally raised pork and chicken, sweet air-cured ham, grilled fresh trout, hearty bean and lentil soups, thick potato omelets.

Among the side dishes are chickpea salad, steamed vegetables with a sauce of tarragon and Xeres vinegar, baked fennel, braised leeks, braised Swiss chard and Spanish tortillas, which are akin to potato omelets.

Small bites, served upstairs in the tapas lounge, include traditional potato omelet with chorizo and aioli; and squid, mussels, shrimp and bay scallops marinated in sherry vinegar.

She cooked an industrial-sized potato omelet with smoked fish and pastry on the side.