The three-course $19 business lunch, with daily choices that vary from Thai calamari to preserved duck, is one of the best bargains in town.

Everybody asked for duck a l'orange; he offered a warm salad of preserved duck.

But his confit de canard, crisp legs of preserved duck, was delicious in its sauce of honey, figs, olive oil and thyme.

Soft lighting, pink tablecloths, fresh flowers, and, in summer, an outside terrace make this an attractive dining spot, and the cassoulet, made with preserved duck, is very good.

Both of them, the first with salted fish and the second with preserved duck ($6.25 each), were incredibly salty, which is not surprising, given the ingredients.

Rich with preserved duck, white beans, cabbage and other vegetables, the thick knife-and-fork soup called garbure would be just the ticket on an icy night.

Cassoulet ($21.50) was unevenly cooked, with dry pork and moist preserved duck.

Main courses include preserved duck ($8) and steak ($13.15).

Bistro du Nord is tailored, urbane and better at everything except that preserved duck.

The deal was this: I would order the magret, and Betsey would take the preserved duck, the cuisse de confit de canard.