The health risks of raw-milk cheese are indeed real.

It is a view held strongly in many southern European countries, where raw-milk cheeses are an important part of the food culture.

For makers of raw-milk cheeses, though, pasteurization is not the solution.

He buys raw-milk cheeses all over France and exports them to high-end stores around the world.

"But for now," he said, looking down at his plate of raw-milk cheeses, "the question is whether to eat the rind or not."

It is an open secret that even unaged raw-milk cheeses - long illegal under federal regulations - can be had around town.

We're reviewing our policy which requires 60-day aging for raw-milk cheese, to determine whether it's sufficient to protect public health.

On the other side is an attractive shop that sells a good selection of wine, local beer and raw-milk cheese.

Others say it prevents the "off" flavors sometimes found in raw-milk cheese and yields a more consistent product.

But the raw-milk cheese, when it's ripe, is so creamy it runs on the plate.