One of her favorites is candy-apple red, made by layering a metallic over a gloss.

The best wines of the Hautes Cotes are the reds, made from the pinot noir grape.

Young reds: Made with a minimum of 70% Mencía.

There is Norton, a unique, full-bodied red made from a hybrid developed in Virginia.

Their best-known wine is probably Horton Norton, a rich red made from an old Virginia hybrid.

It is a reliable red made from indigenous grapes.

Naoussa, Boutari, 1993, from Macedonia, $22, is a forceful dry red made from the elite of that region's indigenous grapes.

The warm, meaty red, made from the agiorgitikos (St. George) grape, adds an exotic dark-licorice dimension to Americans' taste experience.

The wines are called A-Mano, meaning handmade, and by far the best known is a robust red made from a once-obscure grape named primitivo.

The answer, in short, is barolo and barberesco, north-west Italian reds made from the charismatic nebbiolo grape.