She showed jackets and coats made of nylon, rather than wool or cashmere, and ignited a worldwide trend.

- who showed cerulean military jackets," Priestly says.

Mr. Jacobs, for instance, showed loose tops and boxy jackets with boyish trousers.

Miyake also showed softly tailored jackets that looked fascinatingly new but wearable.

Best in the show was Saskia van Drimmelen, who showed white jackets and trousers folded in sharp creases.

Gemma Kahng showed fringed ethnic jackets and evening dresses with jet beading.

When Ms. Restivo did show tailored jackets, they were in lame or white crepe with a touch of gold lace at the collar.

He also showed jackets with and without lapels and collars, sweat pants-style trousers and handsome Henley shirts.

The perplexing question though is what retailers will do with a bridge line - by definition career-oriented - in which Mr. Klein showed precious few jackets.

He showed soft jackets that flow into supple cowls at the neckline, and others with panels wrapped, bandolero style, across the torso.