He was the first to show the skinny suit, and to project the idea of the urban guerrilla.

The skinny black suit was not a new idea; it had been in existence since the late 50's, pleasing playboys and punks until Helmut Lang picked it up.

The clothes - the skinny suits, some worn with scuffed sneakers -were deceptively simple.

Brandelli is something of a connoisseur of the skinny suit, and I wanted to know who first designed the look in its modern form.

In my review last July of the Paris collections, I attributed the revival of the skinny suit to Raf Simons.

But whatever youthful form it took, from rockabilly to "jivey Ivy," the skinny suit was always associated with a group or class of people rather than a single individual.

Today Thom Browne, a designer of skinny suits with high-water trousers, is obviously indebted to the playhouse.

He didn't offer much - some slouchy car coats, ribbed sweaters and skinny suits with loosened narrow ties.

It's the first thing in the summertime: put on a great skinny suit with the shirt open and a pair of thongs.

Aside from influencing the look of the 90's with his skinny suits, Mr. Simons has insisted on using fashion in broader ways.