Caesar salad is a misnomer of sorts; it is a fine green salad garnished with smoked shrimp, but lacks anchovy and garlic flavor.

It is wonderful with its chunks of smoked shrimp and scallops and crunchy tortilla strips on top.

Worthwhile starters on the Sicilian menu included roasted peppers, caponata salad and roasted garlic served with crostini, and a salad of grilled smoked shrimp with white beans, pancetta and arugula.

One of the best starters is the smoked chipotle-marinated shrimp served over buttermilk pancakes that are studded with sweet corn kernels.

A tin of smoked shrimp with tarragon.

It is served with a puree of eggplant and garlic and tasty little falafels of smoked shrimp.

Maybe the Cajun grilled chicken, the smoked shrimp and crab salad, the rotisserie chicken or the ribs?

The two least expensive ($3.95) appetizers were our favorites: a smoked shrimp and wild mushroom bisque with a haunting smoky flavor and Louisiana crayfish spring rolls.

A special one evening of fettuccine with smoked shrimp and tomatoes sorely needed a boost of salt to bring out the flavors.

Huge smoked shrimp ($18), served with heads intact, pose a momentary logistical problem, but as you free them of their shells, they go well with mango and a nutty wild-rice pancake.