I prefer the quieter dishes, like steamed salmon, suffused with complex, understated Indian spices.

There were no elaborate touches in the presentation of our grilled tuna with rather unremarkable salsa and steamed organic salmon with olive oil.

For entrees there are grilled chicken topped with marinated tomatoes and artichokes; veal Sicilian-style with prosciutto, eggplant and cheese, and steamed salmon with mustard sauce and broccoli.

The rest of the food lacked flavor: the mozzarella and yellow tomato salad, the steamed salmon which was served with mussels that were overwhelmed with an iodine taste.

A better choice would be the delicate steamed salmon infused with mixed herbs and served with cumin-scented couscous.

Seafood entrees are fairly reliable, such as steamed salmon with fermented black beans and strips of fresh ginger or steamed flounder with garlic, black beans and hot peppers.

Another recommended seafood dish is medallions of steamed salmon in a faintly tart sorrel butter sauce with three kinds of caviar.

A lot of people order the steamed salmon, too, although it is hard to imagine anyone doing it twice.

Enhanced by garlic sauce, a chunk of steamed salmon was cooked perfectly, and a delightful mince of shrimps stuffed mellow Chinese eggplant.

The menu features steamed salmon and scallops in lime sauce and venison mignons in game sauce.