Also squid and prawns fresh sweet aroma when burned emit very appetizing.

But heed the lesson of Chinese-Cuban joints around town, and avoid the straightforward Chinese dishes like sweet and sour prawns, and chicken with almonds in a "hoisin explosion": most are painfully sweet or boringly bland.

You can't go wrong with starters like steamed scallop or pork dumplings, crispy Peking-style pan-fried pork dumplings, and sweet prawns in black bean sauce.

The sklaldjursplata, or cold seafood plate, offers an excellent selection of shellfish, including plenty of the sweet little prawns that are so popular in Sweden.

Among the best appetizers are the assorted steamed and fried dumplings; sweet prawns in black bean sauce; barbecued spare ribs in a light honey glaze, and the cool hacked chicken in a zesty sesame sauce.

An excellent dinner here included sweet and sour prawns; fish coated in bean paste, deep fried and served with a light chili sauce, and kailin, a leafy green vegetable, stir-fried with spring onions.

At a recent lunch an arresting starter was sweet fresh blue prawns cooked with tarragon-scented white beans and a touch of tomato ($8 lunch; $8.50 dinner).

Order salt-and-pepper prawns, slightly sweet and not remotely greasy.

It's worth the risk: luscious baby squid stuffed with Louisiana blue crab, and sweet prawns with caviar are likely to be your fate.

Order the undistinguished won-ton soup ($1.50) or the anemic sweet and sour prawns ($11) as we did and they will taste much as they would at any Chinese takeout.