Diners can order either in its entirety, or pick and choose single dishes, with a $40 supplement tacked onto the truffle dishes.

Trois Jean has a menu of truffle dishes that segues from white in autumn to black in winter.

Though some truffle dishes are available on the hotel menu throughout the year, the special Menu de la Truffe is usually held during Valentine's Week because of the fungus's renowned (but unproven) reputation to seduce.

A contest among 12 chefs for the best truffle dish will be judged by Sirio Maccioni, owner of Le Cirque 2000, and the chef Jacques Pepin, among others.

The price for truffle dishes at New York City restaurants has shot up, but most restaurateurs who serve them have not doubled their prices.

Where to Eat Specialties at La Taverne in Cahors (65-35-28-66) include truffle dishes, frog's legs and the wines of Cahors.

I forced myself to try one of the truffle dishes, an egg poached in truffled red wine, served on toast and garnished with more truffles; well, yes, it was worth the $30.

His specialties include white truffle dishes and risottos.

Three special truffle dishes are offered every day, for $35 each, at Gertrude's, 33 East 61st Street.

Palio, at 151 West 51st Street, offers 11 white truffle dishes ranging from $45 to $65.