From the five kinds of risotto, pick the risotto bianco, an uncomplicated dish ennobled by nothing more than Parmesan and butter.

At his spot behind the counter, Mr. Bartoli looks like any short-order cook, producing a small selection of uncomplicated, inexpensive dishes that qualify both as good Italian food and great diner food.

Whether you call it a quiche, a tarte, tourte, galette, pizza or a pie, these quick, uncomplicated dishes remain among the most universally appealing.

The uncomplicated, flavorful dishes that are the signature of Turkish cuisine may not come to mind in the coming holiday season, but they are the perfect antidote to rich holiday food.

What was a casual, informal, relatively inexpensive restaurant serving very generous helpings of excellent, uncomplicated dishes retains all its attributes except its penny-wise prices.

It is a straightforward place with sensible, though far from bargain prices, serving extremely generous helpings of excellent uncomplicated dishes.

The menu presented here illustrates a modern meal - light yet lush, healthful yet flavorful, a simple progression of uncomplicated dishes that mirror the mood of the season.

Maybe it's a seasonal reaction against the richness of holiday cooking, but all I've wanted for the last week or two are the uncomplicated, flavorful dishes that are the signature of Turkish cuisine.