Originally planning to use candied bacon, he changed at the last moment to do a bacon brittle ice cream.

If you're using pancetta or bacon, add it to the oil and cook, stirring occasionally, until it becomes slightly crisp, about 10 minutes.

Many, including Mr. Ripert, are using bacon in fish dishes to add a smoky dimension.

(If using bacon, omit the olive oil, and simply render the fat in the pot for 5 minutes.)

If these are too expensive, use regular bacon or bottled bacon bits, sometimes attractively priced at the market.

Variation: For an especially rich dish, use bacon fat instead of butter.

There are extensive variations using ground meat, mushrooms, bacon, or crab, and cooking methods such as baking or grilling.

If you are using bacon, try to find a dry-cured country bacon.

Other common variations include omitting the bread crumbs, wrapping the ham around the chicken, or using bacon in place of the ham.

The restaurant uses bacon and ham from Schaller & Weber, 1654 Second Avenue (86th Street).