It's the lamb that comes from New Zealand, but the rack of of lamb, served with Creole mustard and a balsamic vinegar reduction, was ordinary.

Tart and tropical, it looks like a swath of orange silk, and a balsamic vinegar reduction coaxes every bit of sweetness from it.

A special, fillet of grouper ($15), was encased in puff pastry with mushrooms, ginger and herbs, livened up by a balsamic vinegar reduction.

The tender cutlets, bathed in an intense balsamic vinegar reduction, were topped with roasted tomatoes and mini-gorgonzola beignets, with a buttery dollop of polenta.

The cheese is tart and creamy; the other ingredients - arugula, escarole, pear compote and balsamic vinegar reduction - contribute notes of sweetness, sharpness and fruit.

One, a dark slab of rich duck meat, has some of the gaminess taken out of it by a sweet-tart accompaniment of pineapple in a balsamic vinegar reduction.

Make a balsamic vinegar reduction to put on the macaroni salad?

Less inspiring was a pink block of wild salmon, served very simply on tile-shape potatoes, which was sandbagged by a viciously acidic peppered vinegar reduction.

They go up from there, with a crown of glory being Frank's fries, drizzled with green-peppercorn-scented herb butter, Cajun spices and a balsamic vinegar reduction.

Then dine on sushi-quality yellowfin tuna with sautéed spinach and a balsamic vinegar reduction ($30).