Tweed is still out of the question, but a lightweight wool gabardine or twill is not.

Their fabrics, which may shine or drape languidly, range from water-resistant silk to wool gabardine or blends of rayon and nylon.

A double-breasted women's jacket in lettuce-colored wool gabardine ($285) has matching pants ($165).

A man's mulberry wool gabardine jacket has a dandyish shawl collar ($900).

For fall, the most expensive Basco jacket, a double-breasted pin-stripe in wool gabardine, will cost $350.

It may not be navy-blue wool gabardine with a little white collar as it was for so many years.

If red is your color, Lord & Taylor has a wedged-shaped coat of wool gabardine with a stand-up collar by Perry Ellis ($415).

The latest versions, made of soft wool gabardine, can be tucked in the trousers like a shirt.

Then the basic daytime style was a shift dress with no waistline in a smooth fabric like wool gabardine or cotton poplin.

It was dark blue wool gabardine and seriously severe, hugging her narrow frame like a second skin.