The stewed fresh mangoes, mango chutney and sweet balsamic vinegar drizzle that crowned the chicken's almond crust completed the picture.

You may have a choice of Italian plum with almond crust and cinnamon glaze, pear with custard, or a tart-and-sweet lemon curd.

Two near misses were a salmon with almond crust that had only a sprinkling of slivered almonds on top, and an oddly flavorless tuna steak that was cooked several minutes past our requested rare.

For dessert there are satisfying fruit tarts in almond crust and a surprisingly good creme brulee flavored with Grand Marnier (although the sugar crust was too thick).

The seared mahimahi with almond crust and scallop seviche are just two of many innovative dishes the kitchen produces, and River Cafe's brunches are legendary for their Bloody Marys and perfect eggs.

Had the otherwise delicious tart, with a crisp yet delicate almond crust, been picked up by someone immediately after handling garlic?

Try the spicy Savannah red rice with Georgia shrimp (a jambalaya with mussels, grouper and sausage), or the grouper with a sesame almond crust.

The cake itself is a modern twist on the traditional angel food; despite its low-cholesterol ingredients - the only butter is in the almond crust - it is denser than the classic.