The rib-eye cowboy steak, served Flintstones style with a big bone sticking out, did pretty much all that an unadorned hunk of meat can do, and at $42 it should have.

Given that the meaty veal chop was great, as was the cowboy (rib-eye) steak, we expected the New York strip and baby veal chops to be equally good; they were, in fact, lackluster.

American Airlines, which recently came up with new menus for business and first-class trans-Atlantic flights, features a "cowboy steak" by Stephan Pyles of the Dallas restaurant that bears his name.

The most expensive item on the menu is the cowboy steak for $36.95.

A Lauren Restaurant News that Ralph Lauren is opening a restaurant in Chicago early next month conjures up images of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, or maybe cowboy steaks.

In addition to the 24-ounce $10.95 rib-eye steak that is the trademark of the new moderately priced steakhouses, Morgan's features a cowboy steak for $11.95.

Of course, there is beef: tenderloin with morels and delectable risotto or cowboy steak touched with a bit of tarragon.

At the top end is Water's Edge, where the cheapest entree is $29 and a "cowboy steak" - a 26-ounce cut - is $48.

Ranch hands will be happy with the 20-ounce cowboy steak.

Evenings you can order cowboy steak or assorted sausages.