North African wines like the 1995 Chateau Mornag, a light, fruity red from Tunisia for $24, complement the gently seasoned food.

Stuffed with shiitake mushrooms, shrimp and artichoke hearts, they came in a gently seasoned brandy cream sauce with shallots.

On a similar piping-hot platter, kal bee (marinated and broiled beef short rib steak), was cut into gently seasoned strips.

Two kinds of meat fillings are offered: picante, the spiciest and juiciest we encountered, and suave, which is more gently seasoned.

It is very gently seasoned.

Entrees of note included chicken shahi kurma, pieces of white meat of chicken cooked in a gently seasoned cream sauce.

But the review board argues that synthetic products like vinyl spoil the gently seasoned look of the district and blot out historical details, ruining the buildings.

Labeled very spicy, it was only gently seasoned but pleasing nonetheless.

I expected heat from the tom ka gai, but that delicious coconut chicken soup was gently seasoned, with only a scant whisper of spice.

Another winning appetizer was the fresh angel-hair pasta with baby shrimp sprinkled with roasted pine nuts, on a gently seasoned red-pepper puree.