The veal roll, a tasty slab of breast meat served on its own juices enriched with onion, is solid winter food.

The menu will include spiced tuna and caviar, veal rolls, quail, cheeses and wines.

Try greens with candied walnuts and chevre ($7) or the mushroom-filled veal rolls with white truffle cream ($19).

It includes baby spinach and blue cheese salad and spicy sweet potato soup for appetizers, hot smoked salmon and shrimp wrap, sautéed brook trout, veal roll and chocolate ganache.

Dredge the veal rolls lightly in flour seasoned with salt and pepper.

Much better were tasty veal rolls filled with spinach and cheese in a rich wine sauce and moist swordfish with an olive oil, garlic and herb topping.

A meal for two, including the pasta dish, a second course of cod or perhaps involtini alla romana (veal rolls, Roman style), vegetables, dessert and wine cost about $40.

The dishes range from refined stuffed veal rolls with fruit mustard (mustard blended with plums, pears, figs, cherries, honey and wine) to a simple herbed soup.

The dishes are often intended for early preparation, like the chilled veal rolls, filled with a mixture of veal, bacon, mushrooms and onion, or a lemon-basil chicken salad.

The knowledgeable, swift waiters pass about delicious cold meats and cheeses, and moreish mains: try the delicate involtini (veal rolls).