Among the other choices, the best is rectangular slices of lush yellowfin tuna, seared like tataki, much more interesting than either a fillet of king salmon or chicken breast with wasabi cream.

But sushi is the real star, with specials including a yellowtail in wasabi cream or a shrimp crunch roll.

The Peking duck nachos with wasabi sour cream and other Latin-Asian dishes sounded tempting enough, but we realized right away that we didn't quite fit the (ahem!)

For starters, we tried the roasted little Japanese eggplant filled with crab meat on a pool of mildly piquant wasabi cream: an invigorating combination ($11.50).

Apart from dessert, many other dishes were too sweet; wasabi sour cream, overly employed; vegetables, dull.

From the Four Seasons: tuna sashimi ravioli with wasabi cream and tobiko roe.

Among the dumpling appetizers, the edamame pot stickers ($4.50), which come floating in an ambrosial wasabi cream, and the pork gyoza ($4.50) are the best bets.

Tuna fillet, also sharpened with pepper, is coaxed with a mild wasabi cream.

Gems of raw tuna laced with soy sauce and served with whipped wasabi cream and a brisk seaweed salad made a fine tartare.

Roast salmon, with a crispy skin, on a bed of spinach shared its plate with wasabi cream and Indian chili sauces painted in waves of color.